Perfect Day on the Via Lattea

Nothing does away the midwinter blahs for me like a day out skiing. After having lived and worked in the heart of ski country and the ski industry of Colorado for many years, I have not lost my passion for crisp blue skies, pristine snowfall, the crunch of boots on the snow and the wind in your face while hurtling down the slopes. Even though I don't get to go as regularly as I once did, my passion is undimmed. Perhaps that has sharpened my appreciation and made it all so much more enchanting when I  find myself  on the slopes skiing with someone I love, reveling in spring like conditions in February.
I'm more of a "don't let the weather stop you" kind of a skier, who can enjoy the various conditions for what they are, from many years of living and skiing in them. Fabrizio, however, prefers the sun on his face, a mere headband if he must and no clouds in the sky, when we satisfy our need for speed on the slopes. I can't say I mind either. Recently we enjoyed one of those  completely perfect days. We had just the right balance of crunch to the snow and yet soft enough to carve a turn like pulling your knife through butter at that just right spreading consistency. So it was, when we made our way up to the Via Lattea or Milky Way and skied the day away.

Fabrizio on top of the World Cup Down hill run

The Via Lattea (MIlky Way) is made up of 8 individual ski resorts comprising the largest inter connected ski area in Europe. The Montgenevre area is in France, so you can start in one country and end up in another for lunch. We, however, were not quite that ambitious that day. Our day began in Sestriere which crowns both tops of our Chisone and parallel Susa valley.  Even though Sestriere was in the shadow in the early morning, it was mild enough to be quite pleasant ski conditions. 

First light coming over to Sestriere

Ater a few runs, we decided to head for where the sun was already warming the slopes and to keep our faces to the sun otherwise it might just get a bit too warm making the snow slushy as it does in the spring. Luckily it maintained those perfect conditions all day, sun, warmth and slick snow. We decided to make a large loop including Sansicario and Sauze D'Oulx before beating a path back to Sestriere for a late lunch.  We made our way across the road and up and over to Sansicario on the gondola where we were greeted with quite the cluster of people on the top where 2 gondolas meet.

Cable car up and over to Sansicario from Sestriere

It didn't take long to lose the crowd on the wide open slopes that would be very encouraging for the more timid skiers and those with the whole family along. Fabrizio told me that Sansicario was built in the 1970's as a family resort with an eye towards the Fiat factories and it's workers and their families. It was very pleasant and warm, so much that we began to peel off layers. 

Wide open ski pistes in Sansicario

 I love all the cool cabins and mountain huts there are to stop in, although once we get going skiing, it's hard to want to stop too much.

Lunch stop in Sansicario

We were skiing like we had been skiing every day this season, but my legs eventually told me other wise, so we opted to take our lunch break at La Tana della Volpe. We made a small foray into Sauze d"Oulx before heading back over to the top of what was the Men's 2006 Olympic and Sestriere's annual World Cup downhill run and having some lunch and catching up with our friend Massimo, a local Pragelato man who has gone to great efforts and personal expense to transform and maaintain this former cable car house into a warm and welcoming hotel high in the alps. 

La Tana della Volpe

What a great stop this is, always. The view is spectacular, the interior charming and cozy, the welcome warm and the food delicious. Typical Italian mountain hut fare at its best. 

Cozy interior of La Tana della Volpe lunch stop

We opted for the oh so traditional polenta, sausage and cheese fonduta. Not only was it filling it was wonderful. To have good quality ingredients in a mountain hut that isn't so easy to get the products up to it is a feat and commitment to excellence that I heartily applaud. They make their food from scratch daily as well as their foccacia that they turn into hearty sandwiches. Of course you can find a selection of excellent traditional meats and cheeses, and naturally, pasta dishes to boot. If you want to continue the fun after hours, it is a hotel as well that will blow you away when you awaken in the morning to the stunning panoramic views this alpine hotel affords the lucky few who discover this treasure. I can't say enough about what a special place La Tana delle Volpe (the fox's lair) would be to stay at for a few days. Do note that you do have to be able to ski to stay there. 

There are many reasons to stay and play in the Via Lattea, €34 all day ticket to 6 of the 8 ski areas would be one reason of many. There are other deals on multiple and half days too.  I do enjoy telling you about them, my dear reader, and most of all,  I love the adventure of discovering them too. So thank you for reading along and spurring me on. You might consider visiting our part of the Italian alps. Make your ski or summer hiking holiday part of  a variety of stays. If you don't want to ski everyday, come and stay with us at Bella Baita B&B, and we'll take you to the market in Pinerolo and show you around and teach you how to make something with what we find or point you in the direction of self guided day trips to a small castle or imposing monastery for example. There is something here for just about everyone. We'll do our best to make sure you make the most of your time and won't be disappointed. 

It's beginning to look a lot like winter!

We are starting to have a real bona fide winter here in Val Chisone. The prediction by my father in law that the natural indicators, such as an abundance of walnuts and other folksy type of farmer's almanac wisdom seems to be on the money. Since I have lived here, which is only the last 6 years, we have had early winter dumps of snow, but they usually melted right off as it was too warm to sustain the snow. This year all the conditions are right for this to stick around for the winter. To be honest I don't mind, having come from Colorado high country and use to a long winter season, it's always been some what of a winter tease here at our house. I enjoy winter activities if I can make sure to get out and enjoy them, as opposed to just the never ending prospect of shoveling as a winter discipline. I much prefer, Alpine and Nordic skiing as well as snow shoeing and ice skating, although it's been quite a long time since I slid around on that slippery unforgiving surface. Naturally, further up the road at the ski areas, Prali, Pragelato, and Sestriere, they usually have enough white stuff to keep everybody happy. In fact Prali opened 2 weekends ago and
Sestriere of the Via Lattea, opened this weekend.
Both areas are fun and varied and I do love the buzz that a ski resort has first thing in the morning when the anticipation for powder or simply sliding down the white stuff again is palpable.
Believe me when I say that Prali, is a well kept secret.
Especially when the name of the ski area is Nuova 13 Laghi

This small ski area is everything I like about small areas. Usually, not too crowded, high above tree line with spectacular views of pristine alps, most of them are in protected parks and enough varied skiing to keep me happy. The top to bottom run is a long thigh burner. Have a look at the runs here on their map. I do love this area summer and winter, especially when the price is so right! Winter lift tickets will run you 15€ mid week, when they open full time closer to Christmas and 20€ weekends and holidays, with a 12€ late risers rate that starts at 12:30pm. Summertime they have the main lift open in July -August and weekends in September, for a mere 8€ to get you up and back if you like, with ease to enjoy that high country "Heidi" feel without so much effort. Save it for getting up to where the Genepy grow.

Of course, if you need a break or if not of the ski inclination, there is a mid mountain house that you can get to with a single lift ticket up and down, that affords you a fabulous panoramic view. Enjoy with Italian style hot chocolate so thick you need a spoon to shovel it in or a vin brulé and enjoy catching up on your knitting or favorite book. You can of course wander around in the small village of Ghigo, at the bottom that has a few shops and several bars and plenty of dry walk ways, roads or set Nordic tracks to keep you from sampling too many vin brulé.

Oh well, I need to baking the bread that is about to overflow the bowl that it is rising in and think about strapping my rock skis on a it bit later on. Maybe I'll add some cookies to the game plan as well.

Fun In the Alps

"Peaceful Pragelato" Mecca for Nordic skiers

Our guests have come and gone and now we await our guests for Capo D'Anno(that's new years to you). We had a great Christmas at Bella Baita, with new friends. There was lots of eating and drinking with story telling too. Hot spiced wine, many Christmas cookies, Italian goodies and a foray up the upper valley for a bit of skiing atmosphere, made for more than a few memorable moments. Not all of our guests were skiers, but everyone enjoyed the atmosphere and snow. It was a great day out and a good time was had by all. It's a pretty mild winter for us and the snow that we did have around the house has crept away. Winter is the quiet time of the year for us at Bella Baita, except for the Christmas /New Years holidays and last year's Winter Olympics, of course. 19 days until this years Universiade. We're not far from several ski areas, so we like to get a bit of skiing in ourselves, while we regroup for the coming spring, summer and autumn seasons. We have a few ideas for next winter to keep us busy and off the slopes more than we would like, but we'll just keep that under wraps for now.

Winter or summer Val Chisone offers something for everyone all year round.

"Sestriere" of World Cup and Olympic Downhill fame