Showing posts with label apple. Show all posts
Showing posts with label apple. Show all posts

05 November 2010

Torta di Mele, Italy's favorite Apple Cake


This time of the year when the mountains are decked out with the autumnal color change of the trees, we are in the thick of apple season. I imagine that most of you in the northern hemisphere are as well.   Not a bad time of the year at all. The colors on our hills are really going all out now that the larch have kicked in for the upping of the yellow ante.
I've been making a wide variety of apple delights with our apple abundance and thought I must share an apple recipe as I haven't posted any type of recipe in awhile.  This weekend nearby the commune of Cavour kicks off it's 10 day apple festival. Piedmont has 52 varieties according to our friend Dario of Frutto Permesso, (the permitted fruit), the organic growers not so far from us that produce some delicious pear and apple juices.  To get into the spirit I thought I would share one of Italy's favorite recipes, Torta di Mela. This much loved cake has a number of vatiations as I have seen and tasted over the years. I grew up in apple country in southern Illinois and we had our fair share of apple festivals, apple cakes and of course the al time favorite apple pie. My mother use to made a simple apple snacking cake that was similar to the more simple versions of this Italian apple cake. Today, I'm sharing a slighty more sophisticated version, but it does come together quite easily enough, especially if you don't bother with the decorative sweep of the thinly sliced apples. It will taste just great and look more rustic.

Torta di Mele

8-10 servings -- 26cm/10" cake round
or 22 cm/9" cake round is the same servings

Ingredients:

2 large eggs, room temperature for more volume
150g (5 oz / 3/4c) sugar, I like brown grezzo sugar
185g (6.5 oz / 1 7/8c) flour, sifted with
1 tsp baking powder
120ml (4fl oz / 1/2c) milk
zest of 1/2 lemon
50g (3.5T) butter, use for greasing your pan and cut the rest up into small pieces to sprinkle over the top of the cake before baking 
23g (3T) bread crumbs, plain and stale, not too fine

1kg (2.2lb)** apples, peeled and thinly sliced, medium to sweet apples for a soft, sweet cake*
24g (2T) coarse brown  or white sugar, for sprinkling on top. 

**Update: I find that I have been making this cake in a 22 cm/ 9" pan with 500g / 5 cups or 1.1 pound apples and it seems to bake through more evenly. I like a slightly tart apple, rennet and grigia di toriani. 
Macintosh, pink lady, Braeburn, Jonathons  in the US, to name just a few. 

Cooks notes: I found this online about fuji apples 
"Three medium-sized Fuji apples weigh approximately one pound.
One pound of apples, cored and sliced, measures about 4 1/2 cups."


Recent version - the 22cm size with 500g/ 5 cups apple 
Method:

Preheat your oven to 180*C (350*F) and prepare you cake pan.
Prepare your pan. I use a spring form pan as I find it helpful for easy removal. You might consider lining your cake pan with parchment paper if using a regular round cake tin, to ensure your cake removes easily. I your spring form pan ring doesn't fit tight around the bottom pan, you might line it with paper.

Lightly butter your 26 cm (10 inch) pan with some of the measured butter. Cut up the remainder into small pieces and set aside.
Dust your tin with your bread crumbs and tip any excess amount out for use at some other time. 
Set aside.
Usually I peel, quarter and thinly slice my apples at this point. I try to keep the quarters intact as I thinly slice them on the cutting board, to make it easy to fan the slices out decoratively.

Beat your eggs with a mixer until frothy and light colored. 
Gradually begin to add the sugar to the eggs.
Add half of you milk to the egg and sugar mix.
Then I hand whisk in the flour, zest and baking powder.
Add the rest of the milk, handling as little as possible, yet fully incorporating the dry ingredients. 
Your mixture will be fairly runny.
Pour your batter into the pan.
Arrange your thin apple slices  around the perimeter of the pan, filling the center in as needed.
Sprinkle the coarse 2T sugar on top of the apples and dot the butter around the top.
Becasue my oven runs hot, I cover my cake with aluminum foil for the first 20- 25 minutes to keep the apple from getting too brown.
I uncover and finish baking the cake until the cake is set and golden brown, about 55 minutes, depending on your oven. 
Cool completely before removing from your pan. The spring form does allow you to be able to remove it while it is slight warm. 
I dust with a bit of confectioner sugar for a finishing touch, but not always.  
Serve at room temperature and enjoy, enjoy, enjoy.
Trust me, it won't last long. 


18 November 2008

Tortelloni alle Mele


We had a gazillion other things to do, but we went back to Tutto Mele anyway, lured by the fascination with tortelloni with apple inside. We were in luck as they had a fresh made supply of plump tortelloni. I'm glad we made the effort as they were were fabulously delicious.
The small family pastificio (pasta only shop)in nearby Barge, a small farming community just outside the mouth of our valley and hugging the feet of the mountains, created and produced these fabulously plump tortelloni. Most of us are familiar with the smallish tortellini that are readily found in the US. Here it's not unusual to find these larger fresh fat boys, that are always delish. The pasta for the 50/50 blend of apple and ricotta was a sturdy semolina egg dough with beets added to give it a wow factor. The young woman behind the counter, the daughter of the shop owners and creators of these unusual creations, suggested that a light touch with an accompanying sauce should be used to strike the right balance so as not to cover the delicate flavor. The local favorite of butter with sage or walnut was one suggestion or a light Gorgonzola sauce struck me as the right contrast. So we settled on the festival special of 11 tortelloni for 6 euros and mixed up the purchase with 4 apple, 4 truffle and ricotta and 3 chestnut and ricotta.

As usual, when you simmer colored pasta, it loses it vibrant, inviting color, making it a little difficult to get a gorgeous photo with a layer of Gorgonzola oozing over, but in spite of the challenges of the final finished product, I can say that they were outstanding. The suggested 10 minutes to cook them was a perfect amount of time and the sauce was just right. I would say that when I give this idea a go, I think I will increase the amount of apple. My preference would be a slightly more pronounced apple presence and maybe even an apple inspired sauce to boot.

Apple Tortelloni with Gorgonzola sauce

Then there were the ones with then truffle mixed in with the ricotta.

They were superb!
Toss the cooked pasta directly into your pan with the melted butter and fresh slivered sage, that has been gently sauteed till fragrant and gently mix. Plate and garnish with freshly shaved or grated parmigiana, topped off with a drop or two of truffle oil. It was divine.

Hum? I wonder what I should toss the chestnut ones in tonight?
Any suggestions from any of you?

12 November 2008

29th edition of "Tutto Mele"

While we we're on the subject of apples here are a few photos of the 29th edition of this November's Tutto Mele. It opened last Saturday in Cavour, to the pomp and fanfare of the round up of the usual local dignitaries and politicians. It was a gorgeous day, much warmer than last year as we reminisced with others who had been there as well.

It is a fabulous display of all the many varieties of local Pinerolese fruit growers hard word, each vying for recognition, more fans and points of sale. Every year there are always so many different things to see and sample. The offerings vary widely from year to year aside from the massive amount of apples and quite a few kiwi to boot. Piedmont is the main producer of kiwi in all of Italy and they are coming in strong now. You can usually always count on finding kiwi and apples for the whole of the winter in the Pinerolo market, like steadfast friends. Right now they are crisp, fresh and quite a bargain.


This year they are featuring quite a few other interesting features, like Tutto Gusto, Tutto Eco, Tutto Sposi, or all things flavor, ecological and wedding. Interesting combinations if you ask me. I must admit that as we made our way through the serpentine displays of Sicilian desserts, cheeses, cookies, olive oil, Torinese chocolates, fur coats, hot tubs and got to the bridal fashion section, I thought perhaps we were lost, but of course, when we popped out at the heavy equipment of diggers, tractors, and other big machines that I had no idea what exactly they did, then I knew that we must still be in Cavour.
Now were were we with those apples?

Ok, so these aren't apples either, but what a great display of gigantic turnips and how about that giant squash at the bottom of the photo.

Then we found the tortelloni filled with apple and the pasta made with apple as well. There was a bit of a crowd around this stand and I forgot to go back later to make a purchase to try this unusual offering. Might just have to make our way back over before the end of the weekend. Luckily the festival goes for 10 days, so there's still time to get back over before it ends on the 16 of November.

Especially as I didn't get to try the "Mele in Camicia,"
apples in jackets or apple dumplings as we called them.

And on one last bittersweet note.
A fond farwell to our "Stagista" friend, Rachel, who is back home in Colorado after her 6 month stint working in the kitchen at Maison Verte Hotel
in Frossasco, Italy.
It was certainly our pleasure to have met you and enjoyed a few outings and laughs together.
We wish you all the best in your journey as a chef, as you explore the multi faceted world of cuisine.
Buona fortuna!
We look forward to meeting up again.

If you're looking to check out Tutto Mele here's a google map.

08 November 2008

Everyone loves a baked apple...especially with a twist



We continue to be busy (like everyone else), in spite of this being the slow season for us. Catching up on all the things we couldn't get to or keep up with have now snowballed into a list too long to even mention. Oh well, keeps you young I suppose.
I thought I would share my latest favorite apple dessert, the perennial favorite, baked apple, with a small twist. I took the core out, peeled the whole apple halfway and filled the cavity with a small amount of butter, brown sugar and amaretti cookies. folks around here are fond of using amaretti cookies for a wide range of uses that you wouldn't ordinarily think of, like pumpkin and amaretti cookies as a filling for ravioli, but I digress.
It's apple season and we have many apples to use and experiment with, but right now I have been happily baking our stash off as fast as I can stuff them. We have finally gotten the pipe sorted out for our new wood fired oven and we are slowly tempering the oven with small fires and a few baked apples. A pizza party is coming soon, but in the mean time we're enjoying a bounty of baked apples, a variety of ways.


Mele Ripiena con Amaretti Al Forno
Yield 6

6 Apples, tart and firm
juice of one lemon,
and perhaps a little zest from the skin to add a bit of zip to the filling
cinnamon sugar to taste or color
6 soft macaroon type amaretti biscuits
Handful of hard amaretti biscotti (approximately 6 per apple)
1 Tb brown sugar
1- Tb Butter, softened
Walnut, almonds or pine nuts to garnish
Serve with whipped cream, ice cream or caramel sauce or warm out of the oven just on their own.

Preparation
• Wash apples
• Remove the core from the center of the apples if you have a handy corer. Other wise, carefully cut the center out in circular fashion carefully removing the core. Scoop out most of the apple, leaving enough to hold the apple intact
• Peel the apples top half only going round in a circular motion.
• Dip the top peeled part in the lemon juice or if not enough juice, spread the juice on with a brush.
• Dip the top into the cinnamon sugar, or generous coat.
• Crumble the biscuits/macaroons with the brown sugar and nuts.
• Press a spoonful of the mixture into the center, filling the cavity.
• Press a few pine nuts or almonds into the top.
• Place in a single layer in a paper lined baking dish and cook in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes depending on how large your apples are.
• Serve warm with your favorite garnish , like ice cream, cramel sauce, whipped cream or warm out of the oven starring themselves as they are!

10 November 2007

"Apples & Thyme" A Foremothers Celebration


Well, today the Bella View is taking a bit of a journey out of Italy.
Although I do try to religiously stay on my subject of Italy and particularly about this area if I can, I do occasionally slip off track. Today I'm joining in a celebration of our mothers and grandmothers who have inspired or lead the way in our journey with cooking. Although, I am not a food blogger per se, (lack of discipline), I am passionate about gastronomy and a food blogger groupie to boot. Jeni of the Passion Palate Tours and blog found her way to my site, as we have a common interest in Italy, and invited me to join in this special tribute to our original cooking inspiration with whom we grew up. Jeni and her co host, Inge, of Vanielje Kitchen have put this event together. Both of these women have very interesting lives and blogs, worth having a good read through. I couldn't resist this invitation as my mother was definitely the homemaker in our home growing up and always had something aromatic and delicious going on in our kitchen. These days Fabrizio's mother has become a source of cooking inspiration as her Piemontese specialties were famous for many years in this valley from the 30+ years of running "La Baita". It's always a treat to eat her cooking and even better to learn a few tricks. That, of course, is another post or two.
Today, I am going to share a pie recipe that has been a perennial favorite for many years not only in my family, but I even put it on the menu of our Irish restaurant O'Sheas, that operated at Copper Mt ski resort for many years before changing into something else. My F&B director put it on the menu as "Grandma Kirkpatrick's Sour Cream Apple Pie." That was a nice touch. My grandmother Delsie, would have been so please. We sold a lot of pies over the years and I had quite a few requests for the recipe. Grandma K was a decent cook, quilter and chicken farmer. I remember her getting up before it was light to fry a chicken to put in grandpa's lunch bucket so he'd have a decent meal at the coal mines. Grandpa did all of his chores before and after his shift at his mines and grandma did all the chores in between. They all worked very hard and my mother did her fair shore too.
My mother, Dora Ada,(pronounced as one word, Dorada, or there was heck to pay) though, really is the inspiration for this post and she really was the "pie queen supreme". The title of this event, "Apples and Thyme" is appropriate for me because apple pie was my mother's old faithful standby recipe that never failed to please. The rest of us in the family had our different favorites, mine was fresh sour cherry and my youngest brother's was blackberry. Not sure about my the other two brothers, but I think peach was in there and I know coconut cream, chocolate, pecan, pumpkin and lemon meringue were highly regarded also, but often times it was just humble double crusted apple pie filled with some of southern Illinois's finest sweet and tart apples. Apples that were in abundance during the winter when the summer's fruits had to be brought out begrudgingly, one by one, from the freezer on special occasions when we had company until the spring and summer rolled back around and the strawberries and rhubarb heralded a new fruit pie season. I learned early on about how to be organized so that when unexpected company arrived you could whip up a Dora Ada Gulley highly coveted pie and be loved even more than she already was. You see my mother's pie crust was tender, light and flaky and always the first to disappear at the church pot luck, as was her fried chicken and pretty much anything she brought to the table. I remember vividly on more that one occasion her being asked which were her offerings and then hearing it discussed in detail about the merits of making sure you got to sample something that she brought. there always seemed to be a buzz about which ones were her dishes and a beeline to the buffet table. My mother was quite modest, even painfully shy when she was younger, but when it came to her cooking and her pies, the light came on her face and she glowed with the adoration she received from her appreciative family and friends. She wasn't a fancy cook, just a good cook. She made sure things were presented appealingly ans season well. She had lots of practice over the years. She never failed to tell me how she could put a meal on the table by the time she was 8 years old. I, of course, never really got much of a chance to help out in the kitchen, other than making the ritual uninspired green salad. Mom was in her element in the kitchen and didn't have much patience for those of us that weren't focused or an overnight sensation. I really only found my way around the kitchen when I got a bit older and she was ill and Dad was fairly hopeless in the kitchen, other than sampling, so I started to find the cooking actually quite interesting and fun. I think my desire to cook for a crowd gelled, when my mother had to fly out to be with my older brother for unexpected surgery just before Thanksgiving one year when I was about 16 and we had a house full of guests coming over for the feast. I had had some other take charge group cooking experiences at summer camp so when Mom and Dad decided that "the show must go on", I rose to the occasion. Mom painstakingly put together the involved Turkey dinner set up and I got to help along the way with lots of instructions and even more of her expertise back up preparation, so that when the crowd showed, the feast came off quite well and I finally understood what it felt like to be the center of adoration for all of that good food, even though I knew it was Mom's signature on everything. I merely orchestrated, but it felt good.

Mom and I discovered a common interest during those turbulent teenage years and one that bound us together ever after. We talked a lot about food after that, about canning, whole whet bread, about what it was like growing up on the farm and all the work involved with that. I gleaned a lot of information and we had an endless supply of conversation. A few months before Mom died, I was visiting from Colorado and made her and my brother's family a fresh strawberry and kiwi tart with a layer of dark chocolate ganache on the bottom and sliced fruit arranged on top and glazed to shine. I had been working professionally for a number of years and Mom had seen me in action and had eaten my cooking, and quick with a compliment. This time when she ate my tart after complimenting about how fancy it looked and how special it was, I waited with baited breath till she took that first bite, because with pie crust or "pate brisee," you can never be too sure that the end result will be the perfection that you were striving for till you eat it. She ate it and commented, "well, Marla Sue, you don't have to take a back seat to anyone else's pie crust. Your crust is flaky and delicious. " I was so proud, and still am for such high praise from my mother, the Maestra! So the trick that she taught me that made my results become consistent winners with pie crust is handle the dough as little as possible, use cold water, and refrigerate the dough before you roll it out and that has made all the difference. I have used a variation on her recipe, using all butter as she used vegetable shortening as it yields a sturdier crust that froze well. She use to have a stack of pie crusts that she had made production line style and kept in the freezer next to the fruits of the summer to put together a fast and easy dessert. If she wanted a double crusted pie, she partially thawed one crust in order to get it out of the pan for the top. Since the pie pans were all the same size, it fit perfectly on top of a piled high fruit pie.

The following recipe makes 2 - 9-10 inch pie crusts even though you only need one for the filling. Freeze the other in a flattened disc for another time or used it in a day or two for a savory crust. I'm making an Alsacien onion tart tonight. My "pie" in the picture is in a small fruit tartlette pan, because I don't have my pie pans here in Italy and I thought we would go for smaller potions as there are only the two of us tonight. It makes a very impressive pie, but don't let the lack of the right pan stop you. Enjoy this pie and a tart another night.


Sour Cream Apple Pie
Crust
2 c (200g) all purpose or pastry flour
15 T/ 1 3/4 stick (220g) butter, cold, but not hard
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 c (118g) water

Cut the butter into the flour mixed with the salt, till crumbly. The finer you make the crumb the easier it is to mix and roll later. Too big of clumps of butter can make weak and greasy spots in your final crust. You can handle the flour and butter now a fair amount, but work quickly so the butter doesn't get to warm and start to smear. Add the water and mix quickly and gingerly with a rubber spatula till just clumped together into big clumps. Gather together pressing together till it starts to take shape. Loosely divide into two equal parts and form into a ball and flattening into a disc. Yo will find that it is quite crumbly and difficult to keep together. Lightly press together till it holds together. Some loose bits left are OK and wrap both pieces up in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for an hour before rolling. You might find that you are more successful if you roll your discs out between two sheets of plastic wrap. work quickly so the dough doesn't get too warm and the butter doesn't smear. Roll to slightly larger than your pie pan. If it is too warm and sticking to the plastic wrap, slide the dough onto a cutting board and place int the refrigerator for a few minutes, until the plastic peels away easily. Lift the plastic wrap and flip over into your ungreased pie pan and peel the remaining sheet of plastic off and fill with the filling, before topping and baking. If you haven't prepared your fruit yet, refrigerate your dough until ready to fill. You could also refrigerate over night and fill the next day, or freeze the dough, but I do prefer the dough fresh for the best flavor.Topping
1/3 c flour
3/4 c sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon (optional)
1/4 c butter, cold not hard

Blend the flour, sugar, and cinnamon together.
Cut in the butter till crumbly. This time big clumps are good.
I usually use my fingers after the initial cutting in to get the correct coarse clumpy texture.
Set aside till ready to use.
You can refrigerate or freeze this topping to use on top of all sorts of pastries, danish, muffins, coffeecakes. It's a great thing to have on hand for a quick finishing touch.

Filling


6 medium sized tart apples ( Macintosh, Granny Smith,etc) , peeled, cored, quartered, sliced
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla
1 c sour cream (no such thing here, thick yogurt works nicely, and creme fraiche)
3/4 c sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
pinch salt
2 Tb flour

Mix the egg, vanilla and add the sour cream till blended.
Blend the sugar, cinnamon, flour, salt together.
Add the flour sugar mix to the sour cream mix and thoroughly mix.
Toss the apple slices in and mix to coat.

Assemble
Fill the pie shell with the apple mixture, making a tall mound in the middle. Cover liberally with the crumb topping. Bake in a preheated 375 * F (190*C) oven for about 50 minutes, or till brown and bubbly underneath the topping.

*I usually place a cookie sheet tray underneath, as most pies can boil over before you know it and it is easier to clean a pan that an oven. I also have a silicon sheet that I use between the pan and sheet tray for an even easier clean up.

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